beyond borders

First and foremost, I extend my deepest gratitude to the Lycians for leaving behind such an incredible trail and to Kate Clow for making it accessible to all of us.

Dating back to the 8th century BC, the Lycian Way is a breathtaking natural wonder that has been used by the Lycians, Hittites, Persians, Alexander the Great, Romans, and Byzantines. Now recognized as a UNESCO heritage site, being a part of this journey was one of the most incredible experiences of my life.

I never had the idea of embarking on this journey in my mind. It all started with a suggestion from a close friend of mine who lives in the UK—a true adventurer. Encouraged by his enthusiasm, another close friend and I decided to set out on this adventure. This guy once cycled across Britain, a complete madman. If you love the thrill of exploration, any recommendation from him is bound to stir your excitement—especially if you get to share the experience with close friends.

The full Lycian Way spans 535 km and typically takes around 25 days to complete. Unfortunately, we were only able to cover three days’ worth of the trail this time. However, I am certain that I will return to complete the entire route. From Ölüdeniz to Kabak and Butterfly Valley, every step of the journey was mesmerizing. Next on the list are Patara, Xanthos, Olympos, and Geyikbayırı. One day, I will proudly count myself among those who have walked the entire Lycian Way. After all, isn’t life all about setting and achieving meaningful goals?

Let me be honest—if you have little experience in trekking, this is not the easiest trail to start with. It is physically and mentally demanding, classified as a difficult trekking route, and can push you to your limits if you are not well-prepared. Without the right equipment, you might even be forced to turn back. We set out with 20 kg backpacks, and despite being physically active individuals, there were moments when the trail challenged us immensely. Steep ascents and descents, constant climbs, fluctuating oxygen levels, and the heat made for an exhausting experience. At times, I felt completely drained. But every time fatigue hit, I found solace in the endless blues and greens of the Mediterranean. Since childhood, being in nature has been when I felt most free, and this journey made me feel lighter and more liberated than ever. I left behind all my worries, anxieties, and stresses. That was my primary motivation for embarking on this trek in the first place. I was going through a stressful period in my life, struggling with work and social pressures, and had begun to feel aimless. This journey was meant to give me a purpose—and in the most enjoyable way possible.

The night before we started, we stayed in a small bungalow. What I remember most vividly about that night was the stars—so bright and clear. Living in a city like Istanbul, where artificial lights drown out the night sky, you rarely get to see the stars in their full glory. But that night, there wasn’t a single disruptive light around. Just a pitch-black sky scattered with stars. I must have stared at them for hours. In moments like these, you realize how small and insignificant you are in the grand scheme of things. The worries that once kept me awake at night suddenly felt meaningless. I will always be grateful for experiences like this.

Our journey started in Fethiye, with Montana Hill offering one of the most breathtaking views I have ever seen. This is where the trail officially begins, and the climb starts here. One crucial piece of advice: make sure you have proper trekking shoes. I, foolishly, wore my Air Force sneakers. While it wasn’t unbearable, it certainly wasn’t the most comfortable choice. Besides that, breathable hiking tights, a windbreaker, and quick-drying shirts will suffice. Packing light is key—carrying unnecessary gear will only weigh you down. One absolute must-have is a reliable water bottle. There are plenty of natural water sources along the way, so water isn’t a major concern, but food is. The heaviest items in our backpacks were food supplies.

On our first day, we hiked from Ölüdeniz to Butterfly Valley, covering around 20-25 km. We started around 10:00 AM and arrived at Butterfly Valley at 6:00 PM. The excitement of the first day was overwhelming—I knew I was in for an unforgettable adventure. If you ever visit this area, don’t miss Butterfly Valley, especially during this time of the year. It’s absolutely stunning.

On the second day, we left Butterfly Valley around 10:30 AM and set our sights on Kabak Bay as our endpoint. This stretch is another 15-20 km. I had visited Kabak many times before for vacations, creating countless memories with friends. Those who have been to Kabak will understand what I mean—it’s a place defined by music, friendships, and a relaxed, bohemian vibe. But arriving there on foot, after a long day of trekking, opened up an entirely new perspective for me. It was an unforgettable experience. This time of year, Kabak is almost deserted, which is a rare and special treat. The absence of people made it feel even more magical. However, the second day was when physical exhaustion really kicked in. My legs were starting to give up. Make sure to carry muscle relaxants in your backpack! But no matter how exhausted you are, do not miss the sunset at Kabak. It makes everything worth it.

The locals in Kabak are incredibly welcoming. Since it was off-season, finding a proper meal was a bit difficult, but you can still stock up on supplies for the next leg of the trek. We had dinner at a small restaurant run by a former sailor who used to work as a chef on ships. He was a bit eccentric but great company. Initially, we had planned to stay in Kabak for just one night, but due to a few logistical issues, we extended our stay by another night before heading back to Fethiye. Honestly, we didn’t mind—Kabak is a place where time slows down, and every moment is worth savoring.

On the third day, we made our way back to Ölüdeniz and decided to spend a night there. We had admired it from Montana Hill on our first day, and now we wanted to experience it up close. With the area nearly empty at this time of year, it felt like the perfect moment to indulge a little. We swam in the lagoon, drank whiskey by the shore, ate delicious seafood, wandered the town, and flew our drone over the coastline. We did almost everything except paragliding from Babadağ. Though we had to cut our Lycian Way trek short, the memories we created along the way were just as valuable.

As I mentioned at the beginning, we will return to complete the journey. Due to a few setbacks, we had to stop on the third day this time, but next time, we will be more organized and better prepared. The Lycian Way is an unforgettable adventure—affordable, breathtaking, and far more rewarding than any traditional vacation. It’s an experience that makes you feel truly free, helping you shed the weight of everyday life.

This isn’t a trip where I can tell you exactly what to do step by step. It’s something you have to surrender yourself to. A journey to be felt, not just followed.

I hope to write about the second leg of this journey soon—I am already excited to get back on the trail and continue where we left off.